National Intangible Cultural Property No. 14 Hansan Moshi Jjagi(Fine ramie weaving of Hansan) +
||Intangible Cultural Property / Traditional Technology / Craft
As textile traditionally made in the country, mosi (fine ramie) is made of the outer skin of ramie plant stalks. A record made during the reign of King Gyeongmun (r. 861-875) of Unified Silla makes us assume that it was sold to neighboring countries. Ramie plant is a perennial plant. The stalks close to the root are harvested when they turn yellowish brown and the leaves at the bottom are withered. They are harvested three times a year, i.e., between May and early June, between early August and late August, and between early October and late October. Those harvested between early August and late August are the best in terms of quality.
Fine ramie produced in Hansan is far better than that produced in other areas in terms of quality and exquisiteness. Thus, fine ramie of Hansan has been regarded as synonymous with fine ramie in this country. Fine ramie is produced as follows: first of all, the outer skin is peeled from the harvested stalks; the peeled off skin is soaked in water for about a day and dried; then it is soaked again in water; strands of split ramie pieces are made into threads, and this process of making threads decides the thickness uniformity of threads. Products of Hansan are known for exquisiteness and thickness uniformity. The thickness of threads decides how many strands are to be put into a given space. The threads are starched, and then ramie is woven with a weaving machine. White ramie fabric is made through the process of bleaching based on the repeated process of soaking ramie fabric and then drying it in the sun.
Ramie fabric is usually divided into 7 sae through 15 sae. One sae refers to 80 warp threads woven into a 30cm wide cloth. A cloth with 10 sae or more is called semosi (finely woven ramie). Ramie cloth is easily broken in a space with insufficient humidity. Thus, ramie weavers should work in unventilated space even in summer. They cannot work on a windy or a rainy day. Nowadays, however, white ramie fabric is made by means of chlorine bleaching. The relevant industry is on the decline with the development of modern textile technology.
Fine Ramie Weaving of Hansan has been designated as important intangible cultural heritage to maintain the production skills considering its historical value as material for traditional summer clothes, symbolizing the country’s esthetic quality.